“I spent half the yr consuming inexperienced zaatar!”
I heard that all through my childhood, each time my dad was complaining about his boarding faculty days at Mar Yacoub in North Lebanon.
He despised the college for a lot of causes, however the horrible meals was a serious one. As a baby, he would go off into the wilderness to select inexperienced zaatar (recent thyme) which grew within the spring months.
He would then combine it with recent onion, at any time when accessible, and a few olive oil, wrap it in skinny, delicate Lebanese bread and fill his stomach with one thing he might digest each bodily and mentally.
In the future, it lastly occurred to me to ask what he did the opposite half of the yr.
“I ate out of my mouneh.”
Mouneh is an Arabic phrase that actually means provisions and is used to consult with the preserves historically put up by Lebanese households yearly. They will embody pickles, jams, natural teas, kishk (dried yoghurt blended with bulgur wheat), syrups, tomato paste, grape leaves, olives, zaatar, and dried greens like eggplants that we name “adeed”.
There was a time when our ancestors from Mazraat al-Toufah (the Apple Orchard), a northern village nestled in a valley throughout from Mizyara and just under Ehden, sustained themselves largely from the land.
They preserved a lot of what they planted and regardless of the timber of their orchards supplied within the spring and summer season months to hold them by way of autumn and the chilly snowy mountain winters.
This custom has been handed on from era to era. Though fewer and fewer individuals practised it as time went on and extra Lebanese moved to the cities, it remained an essential ceremony of passage to get some mouneh from the village to eat again on the town. And at this time, do-it-yourself mouneh is making a comeback.
My father’s mom, my Grandmother Asma made her personal mouneh yearly, and my Aunt Amaline, his sister, grew up watching her and studying her methods instinctively.
Aunt Amaline is now 85 years outdated and nonetheless forages for zaatar, picks grape leaves, and makes her personal apricot jam.
She’ll let you know she prefers realizing precisely what her meals is fabricated from and the one method to assure that’s to make her personal stuff by hand.
For her, it’s all about style and high quality, though for others nowadays, value performs an enormous half in deciding to protect extra meals.
“Folks within the village began planting once more as a result of issues are so costly, sure, however mouneh is greater than that.
“Except for cash, once we had been younger, we didn’t have this stuff accessible within the winters. Our village felt remoted at the moment. Should you didn’t put together your self, you couldn’t eat. Folks ‘tricked’ nature to dwell off the land year-round.”
Aunt Amaline began making mouneh when she acquired married at 20, greater than half a century in the past, in Mazraat al-Toufah. It was simply what was finished and felt pure to her.
There was no different means.
I known as Aunt Amaline to speak and to see when can be time to go see her. Her son was visiting from the US and I didn’t need to get in the best way of her time with the youngsters and grandkids, however I did need to see her and get my family time.
Driving in Lebanon isn’t for the faint of coronary heart, and I solely do it when completely crucial, renting a automobile and gritting my tooth as I get on the Autostrad with individuals zooming previous.
Then I’ve to maintain heading north to the ˜village on a two-lane freeway with no median. Not significantly better.
The anxiousness solely begins to dissipate once I flip onto the tree-lined village street, exuding the odor of pine to welcome me. My aunt’s home is on a curve that some village individuals name “Kou’ Amaline” or “Amaline’s Curve”
She lives on the bottom flooring and her eldest son lives upstairs together with his household, she will typically be discovered on her giant terrace, particularly if there’s some afternoon daylight. I normally name out her identify as I stroll in, so I don’t startle her, and she or he all the time responds together with her heat “Ahla!” (welcome) from wherever she is in the home.
On this go to, I had instructed Aunt Amaline on the telephone, I needed to get some grape leaves and see if I might protect them myself. In fact, the mere point out of this concept to her meant that Aunt Amaline would make a dish of stuffed grape leaves, able to eat as quickly as I arrived.
The tangy vegetarian stuffed leaves had been so so tender, the yoghurt was so cool and creamy. One way or the other, dipping them in that yoghurt introduced out the tanginess much more,
There are two methods to protect grape leaves, Aunt Amaline tells me as we eat – one includes brining them and the opposite is to pack them right into a jar so tightly that there isn’t any room left for air.
“That is the most effective time to select them. Should you don’t use water and salt to pack them, you need to verify on them after per week or two to ensure they don’t mould. If there’s no mould by then, they’re good. You may freeze them too however that’s now not an possibility in Lebanon.”
See, the place Aunt Amaline lives, in Mazraat al-Toufah, there are solely 4 hours of government-provided energy a day, and she or he and the opposite villagers should complement that with just a few hours on a generator. So freezers are difficult.
It’s been like this throughout for the previous two years or so, as Lebanon’s financial disaster tears on the nation.
Proper now, as a Beirut-dweller, I’ve no electrical energy for about eight hours a day. Once I do have energy, it’s partly as a result of I take part in a shared generator service in my neighbourhood.
It’s exhausting to determine which hours are supplied by town and which come from the generator, so I’ve gotten used to unplugging the fridge once I want to make use of the washer (for instance) as a result of the generator can’t assist each and I by no means know when it’s operating.
However, I maintain reminding myself, whereas my labneh doesn’t final so long as it used to, at the least issues usually are not as unhealthy as they had been in October final yr – when there was no authorities electrical energy in any respect for a number of days.
And likewise, at the least Lebanon will all the time have its flagship, unspoilable, meals: zaatar.
Methods to zaatar
Zaatar is one thing Aunt Amaline is aware of properly.
She explains how it’s used otherwise relying on whenever you decide it. Should you decide it younger, you may eat it recent or in salads as a result of “It’s most tender earlier than it flowers.
“As soon as it flowers, you make dried zaatar. You want to decide it with its stalks, dry it, then take away the stalks and grind it. You add the sumac and the toasted sesame seeds with a minimal quantity of salt. Your grandmother used to grind it in a big mortar and pestle however now we’ve meals processors and locations that grind it for us.
“It’s additionally greatest to not combine every part without delay. Sesame has oils that change the style of the thyme. Hold them separate and blend simply sufficient for what you want.”
She is aware of this appears like an insane quantity of labor for the common metropolis dweller.
“Sure, it’s simpler to purchase zaatar however how will you recognize what’s in it? They might put grass or wooden in it to mass-produce.”
Dried zaatar can be utilized as a herb in salads or sizzling meals. Mostly, it’s blended with olive oil and wrapped in a pita or used because the topping for aromatic manaeesh – what my Aunt Amaline likes to make at residence for her grandchildren on weekend mornings.
That odor, whether or not inexperienced zaatar simply plucked or dried zaatar permeating our days because it wafts from the bakeries, is so inherently acquainted to the Lebanese that it’s the very first thing individuals suppose to ship abroad to their kin within the diaspora as a reminder of residence.
In Beirut, I nonetheless had zaatar in my kitchen, left over from presents made to me by 4 completely different kin, every with their very own particular combine and flavour. It’s a protected breakfast for these days when the meals within the fridge spoils as a result of the ability is out – or I wanted to do a load of laundry and needed to unplug the fridge.
Proper now, at Aunt Amaline’s these ideas are straightforward to push away as we benefit from the stuffed grape leaves and I lean again in my chair once we are finished.
By no means one to take a seat idle, Aunt Amaline puttered a bit then recommended we go go to her sister, my Aunt Mary, who’s round 99 years outdated and lives close by together with her daughter, my cousin Salma.
Really, Aunty Mary might be older, as a result of throughout her era they’d typically register newborns gone their precise birthday.
Salma’s natural tea
My Aunt Mary and my cousin Salma dwell in Dahr el Mghara overlooking the village. Salma’s residence is gorgeous, the results of her a few years of exhausting work as a trainer.
Now retired, the 72-year-old is caring for her mom and making magic out of her rambling terraced backyard.
Once I instructed Salma I needed to speak about mouneh at this time, her face lit up. Her backyard is filled with timber – figs, apricots, plums, olives – and she or he makes mouneh commonly.
There are all the time roses too, though this yr there are fewer rose bushes as a result of there was a water scarcity that saved her from planting too many. She nonetheless goes out to select wild flowers for her natural tea, which has 11 components.
“I wash every part earlier than I dry it. I make my mouneh as a result of that means I’m positive that it’s clear and natural.”
Rising up, Salma realized so much about preserving and the meals rising round her from the time she spent together with her paternal grandfather, Moussa Elias, who was very educated in preserving meals and an skilled on honey.
She additionally realized some from my Aunt Mary, however Aunt Mary was busy with seven different kids, most of whom had been youthful. So Salma, left to her personal units, would enterprise to different properties within the village, connecting with the village elders and studying how every household made issues their very own means.
Strolling into Salma’s kitchen is like strolling onto a vibrant, ethereal terrace. The massive home windows throughout look out onto the luxurious inexperienced pines that encompass the home and the daylight streaming by way of them makes drying herbs straightforward.
“Individuals are making much more mouneh now,” she says. “Issues have gotten actually costly and other people realised the value of the land. They’re respecting what that they had forgotten.
“We’d dwell higher if all of us had that connection. You may’t decide a wild flower, have a look at it, odor it and never really feel good.”
She’s completely happy to indicate me the various things she has made and put up in her pantry, a few of the jams she makes use of when she’s baking a dessert, or just unfold on a little bit of bread at breakfast.
“That is my plum jam. I left the pores and skin on once I pureed it as a result of it has loads of nutritional vitamins. That’s simply my very own means, others might let you know otherwise.”
Salma’s satisfaction in her preserves is apparent, she exudes that sensible information that comes from lengthy years of constructing one thing by intuition. And she or he doesn’t use fancy phrases to explain what’s what.
“Should you maintain up the plate sideways and the jam doesn’t slide off, you recognize it’s finished.”
Except for plum preserves, Salma’s cabinet cabinets groan underneath the burden of berry molasses, olives, olive oil, natural tea, dried mint, even handmade cleaning soap. And sure, after all, there may be zaatar, fastidiously gathered, dried and floor by Salma’s personal arms.
Within the time since I used to be there visiting together with her, Salma has despatched me a number of voice notes and photographs of recipes on WhatsApp – cherry jam and apricot compote.
Curious, I requested her who took the photographs, and she or he instructed me it was her grandnephew who had come to spend a while together with her.
Seems like she’s passing on the mouneh baton her elders handed on to her.